The Unvegan

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Pizzeria Bianco at Last

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A sight for hungry eyes.

Finally, the inevitable has happened. You’ve probably been wondering how many trips to Phoenix it has to take for a food blogger to tackle Pizzeria Bianco and the answer is far too many. Pizzeria Bianco, for those who are not in the know, has regularly been recognized as the greatest pizza in the country and that is no small claim, especially considering we are talking Phoenix here and not New York or Chicago. With that title, as expected, the place is nearly impossible to get a seat at, at least during normal eating hours. During abnormal hours, like 4:45 on a Thursday afternoon, things are a little different and we found multiple open tables and took one for ourselves.

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That oven is where it all happens.

For four of us, there was much discussion about what to order. As this was THE Pizzeria Bianco and I was sharing, I opted to partake in whatever pizzas were ordered, regardless of whether or not they had veggies. I did, however, make sure to take those veggies off before eating them. The first pizza we ordered was the Biancoverde, followed by the Wiseguy and an classic Margherita topped with soppressata to make things interesting.

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The namesake.

The Biancoverde is basically a white pizza topped with greens, which I suppose is obvious if you know Italian. The white part consists of fresh mozzarella, parmigiano reggiano and ricotta, while the green part is arugula. There is also no sauce on the pizza. As I had expected and hopefully for the ease of my eating, the arugula was tossed onto the pizza after cooking and was easy to remove. With my first bite, I could tell why the place had gone with the name Pizzeria Bianco, because this pizza was awesome. It had just the right amounts of each cheese and the crust was incredibly tasty. Of the three pizzas, this was definitely my favorite.

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Some sort of wiseguy, eh?

The Wiseguy comes topped with wood-roasted onion, house-smoked mozzarella and fennel sausage without any sauce. And once again, Pizzeria Bianco made it easy for me to eat. As opposed to the onion that some pizza places use, these were huge chunks of onion and easy to remove. Unfortunately, though, I found the pizza to be lacking in flavor compared to the Biancoverde. Perhaps this was just in comparison and the Wiseguy would have been amazing in another pizza place, but not so much at Pizzeria Bianco. I think a little sauce might have gone a long way on this pizza, but realistically the sausage should have provided enough flavor to keep me satisfied.

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Salty-ssata is more like it.

Finally, there was the Margherita. True to its name, it was topped with tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and basil, plus the soppressata that we had ordered on top of it. At the very least, I wanted one pizza fit for an unvegan. And while this pizza was fit for me, it also did not hold up to the power of the Biancoverde. In this case, it wasn’t lack of flavor, but that the soppressata was overly salty. In my prior experience, I have found soppressata to add a nice kick like pepperoni, but better and unfortunately that wasn’t the case here. Again, I don’t know if this was in comparison to the Biancoverde or not, but I have to say it was disappointing to me.

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The Biancoverde without the verde.

So while the Biancoverde was truly worthy of Pizzeria Bianco’s fame and the crust is undeniably amazing, I have to admit that I expected something better. For a place to be called the best in the country, every pizza should make you beg for more and I didn’t feel that way. I would go back for the Biancoverde and encourage anyone who goes to Phoenix to check it and the other pizzas there out, but I must sadly say that it is not so special to merit traveling to on its own accord.